News

An Interview with Brooke Roberts-Islam

Written by Sheik Azharuddin | December 19, 2023

 

As you embark on your new role as an editor, brimming with energy and passion to contribute to your organization, you find yourself facing a dilemma. You've been tasked with writing on sustainability. It's an ever-developing field with a broad umbrella covering areas such as the environment, science, social issues, finance, technology, and more. The challenge is that even experts in this field are not clear about the subject matter. So, how does one report on such a vast and complex topic? What's the best source? Is it the internet or a source deeply immersed in the industry? As a firm believer in "hands-on experience," I've chosen the latter, and my quest for a true innovator in sustainability led me to Brooke Roberts-Islam.  

Brooke Roberts-Islam, a notable figure in the field of sustainability, is a senior journalist for Forbes. She is a distinguished writer, author, and founder of Techstyler, a consulting firm based in the UK focused on sustainability and innovation in the fashion and textile industries. Her previous career delved into medical imaging and knitwear design, providing her with hands-on experience in fashion design, textile manufacturing, product development, and garment production. She is the voice for individuals without a voice in the textile and garment industry, advocating for their rights and echoing their opinions to the textile and garment industry worldwide.  

Sheik: Hello Brooke! Thanks for taking the time to connect. Following the Rana Plaza incident in 2012, a decade has passed, what are significant changes you see in the industry?  

BR: After the industrial accident, there was a significant shift in factory safety marked by the implementation of the Bangladesh Accord, now known as the International Accord, which led to significant refinement in its rules and policies. The Accord played a crucial role in transforming the ready-made garment (RMG) sector, not only in Bangladesh but globally. It has set standards for safety regulations and ensured the independent freedom of association for workers, particularly vital in developing countries where most garment manufacturing occurs.  

This development is pivotal in the history of the ready-made garment sector, addressing safety concerns not only in Bangladesh but also in manufacturing countries worldwide. During the Rana Plaza accident, brands were aware of the working conditions but managed to shift responsibility solely onto manufacturers. 

As mentioned in one of my articles, the implementation of the Bangladesh Accord initially created a power imbalance, with brands absolving themselves of responsibility and dictating terms to manufacturers. This approach hindered the implementation of the Accord, which could have been more collaborative with manufacturers. Recognizing that safety was an industry-wide problem, the Accord highlighted the need for all stakeholders, including brands and manufacturers, to work together for meaningful change.  

I was reading one of your articles that made me question how fast fashion is often villainized, would you mind shedding some light on how fast fashion is being held responsible as "the scapegoat? 

Sustainable fashion lacks a clear legislative definition in Europe, particularly in terms of fast fashion. It is understood as clothing produced in large volumes, at accessible prices, and with quick market turnover. Rather than adhering to seasonal or longer lead time production, fast fashion is known for frequent production, often irrespective of consumer demand, aiming to drive unabated consumption. “Fast fashion” gained prominence following the success of brands like Zara and H&M, the latter being founded in the fifties.  

There is a prevalent notion that the volume and pricing of goods are the sole determinants of sustainability in the fashion industry, which appears to be shaped by dominant luxury brands, aligning them with sustainability and longevity; while fast fashion brands like Zara and H&M face heightened criticism for being environmentally harmful.